Camping on Lake Granby, Colorado

Stillwater Campground on Lake Granby, Colorado

Deep in the heart of the Colorado Rockies, Stillwater Campground sits on the shores of picturesque Lake Granby and is surrounded in all directions with snowcapped peaks, pristine lakes, and abundant wildlife.  Although the pine trees at this campground have been removed because of the pine beetle infestation, this is still a favorite camping destination of mine. I  stayed 2 nights here in my T@B, watching sailboats drift across the lake during the day and stars crowd the skies at night.  

Grand Lake village and Rocky Mountain National Park are just 7 miles away and make great day trips.   Grand Lake is a popular summer destination and offers many activities including boating, fishing, hiking, swimming (brrrr), and horseback riding, to name a few.  If you are inclined to a more relaxing pace, the main street through town has many interesting tourist shops, restaurants, bars, and an old fashion ice cream parlor on just about every block.

Kauffman House Museum/Hotel

One unassuming treasure that is easy to overlook when visiting Grand Lake is the Kauffman House Museum.  For a $5 admission visitors are transported back to the early 1900s to a 5-room, 2-story log hotel filled with colorful artifacts and period pieces that offer an intriguing glimpse of the people and places in early Grand Lake.   I'm generally not a huge fan of museums, especially when on a camping trip (I'd rather be hiking or biking), but this was an exception for me with a very friendly and knowledgable staff that gave an enriching tour of the hotel.  If you are looking for something at a more relaxed pace - this will fit the bill.  I give it two thumbs up.

Second only to my love for old camping trailers is my fascination with antique boats.  As luck would have it, there was a small antique boat show on Grand Lake this weekend.  Some of these gleaming wood beauties were over 100 years old, and one even had a small steam engine.  One owner, in particular, was very proud (and rightly so) of his Chris-Craft runabout named CC Rider.  As I walked by, he began to regale me with all the details about his boat and boasted that the engine had a triple intake.  I had no idea what the significance of that was, but I nodded as though I did.  He was like a proud parent showing off his new baby and didn't seem to mind or notice my mechanical ignorance.  He introduced me to some of the other boat owners with the same exuberance and enthusiasm about their projects as his own.   I envy people like him who are so passionate about their work.

Elk off Trail Ridge Road

Trail Ridge Road is also close, and it runs through Rocky Mountain National Park.  It is a perennial favorite drive of mine between Grand Lake and Estes Park, and so I took this route home over the "highest continuous highway in the U.S." reaching a chilly and snow-covered elevation of 12,183'.  I towed the T@B with a Nissan Xterra and had no difficulties pulling the camper at this altitude and steep grade,  taking extra caution, of course, on curvy and narrow sections and near the sometimes stomach-wrenching drop-offs.

Hello Marmot

The drive not only offers top-of-the-world views, but also frequent glimpses of wildlife near the road, making this a perfect opportunity for a photo safari.  I saw many diverse wildlife including herds of elk, a moose, and even a typically shy marmot greeting passers-by.

I continue to enjoy the T@B camper and the adventures it offers on these short get-aways.    Sadly though, another weekend flew by too quickly.   

More photos here.

If You Go:

Lake Granby

Stillwater campground is located 6 miles south of Grand Lake, CO, and sites can be reserved on recreation.gov.  I stayed in site #94, which was smaller than most, but it was a perfect size for a T@B camper and tow vehicle.   The campground is built on a hill, so some sites are terraced with separate levels for tent pad, picnic table, and parking.   The main drawback about Stillwater campground is that, like many in the area, the pine trees have been cut down because of the pine beetle infestation.  So, shade is hard to come by, but it also means that most sites have unobstructed, spectacular views of the Lake.    The campground has showers (sometimes the water is even hot) and flush toilets.  Some sites have electricity and water, and there is a dump station at the entrance.  In addition to the $20/day camping fee there is a daily use fee (~$5) for entrance into the Arapahoe Recreation Area where the campground is located.  A multi-day pass can be purchased with a credit card at the entrance to the campground.

Moraine Park - Rocky Mountain National Park

Loch Vale

This was a banner year for snow pack in the Colorado Rockies, which was evidenced by high drifts of snow and streams and falls running fuller and faster than I have seen in my 20+ years of living and hiking in the area.  Water falls were particularly spectacular especially at Alberta Falls and also at the Alluvial Fan region near Horseshoe Park.

Alberta Falls

The highlight of the trip was a hike to Loch Vale, a crystal clear lake nestled at the base of a rugged mountain peak and set against the baby blue Colorado sky.  In a word, "spectacular", but that doesn't even come close to doing it justice.   It is about a 3-mile (one way) hike from the Bear Lake parking lot, and it has close to 1000' of elevation gain.  The trail also passes the stunning Alberta Falls, which this year was roaring full of water due to the heavy snow melt. It is rated as a moderately difficult trail, and it sees very heavy use.  I recommend getting there very early to avoid the crowds.

We were lucky to see a wide variety of wildlife in and around Moraine Park including a red-tailed hawk soaring above the meadow, elk herds roaming across overflowing streams, a fox slyly searching for its next meal, and a speckled fawn with its mother climbing to safety up a slope of fresh green summer growth. 

Moraine Park Campground

We stayed at the Moraine Park Campground, which is one of RMNP's biggest with 245 sites.   Although it is often full on the weekends, it didn't feel crowded since the sites were well-spaced over a large area, and many of them, especially on the campground's perimeter, had exceptional views of Rocky Mountain scenery.  Cost for an RV site was $20/night plus a separate park entrance fee.   There is no electricity nor water hook ups, but some of the restrooms have flush toilets and there are water spigots located throughout the campground.   Hot showers, groceries, and restaurants can be found just minutes away in Estes Park.  Check the visitor's center in Estes Park for more information.

Buena Vista, Colorado 2011

My Favorite Colorado KOA campground

Although Buena Vista, Colorado, is known for its outdoor sports activities like white water rafting, hiking, kayaking, and fly fishing, this visit was all about relaxing, reflecting on life, and taking in the spectacular views.

We stayed at my favorite Colorado KOA campground, just a few miles S.E. of Buena Vista, on a ridge that overlooks the Arkansas River Valley with the towering Collegiate Peaks as a backdrop.  Sunsets are rich and full of color, and the starry night skies are just as spectacular.

Buena Vista sits between two great day trip destinations - Leadville and Salida.    Leadville is a historic mining town with museums and antique stores.  Salida, is more of an artist community with many studios, coffee shops and boutique stores.  Both towns are fun to explore.

We hope to return again soon to take advantage of the adventurous side of Buena Vista and check out the rafting and hiking opportunities.   This time though, Buena Vista made a perfect destination to just sit back, relax, and recharge.

If you go:

Enjoying some of the art displays in Salida

Buena Vista is located about 120 miles SW of Denver, and it is about a  2 1/2 hour drive.  We stayed at the Buena Vista KOA, which offers many amenities such as a laundry, hot showers, flush toilets, game room, horse rides, ice cream socials, breakfast canteen, and pizza on Fri and Sat nights.  The campground is mainly dirt/rock roads on a terraced and groomed hillside.   Many sites have water and electricity, and some have sewer hookups.  For the best unobstructed views that overlook the campground and the Arkansas Valley, I recommend sites B28 and B27.

Estes Park, CO - Our First Trip of 2011

T@B camper in Estes Park

We rolled the T@B out of moth balls and headed for Estes Park, Colorado, this past weekend for the first trip of the season.  We couldn't have asked for better weather, which lent itself well to exploring Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) and enjoying nearby hiking trails.

Deep snow in May at Bear Lake

Wild Turkeys in RMNP

We stayed at Spruce Lake RV Park on the edge of town, just a short 10 minute drive to the entrance of RMNP.   The national park is abundant with wildlife, but we only had to travel a few yards from the campground to see a herd of elk.  In fact, there was fresh evidence of elk activity right at our campsite when we arrived, which made after-dark trips to the restrooms a little bit like running blindly through a mine field.

One day after breakfast we drove up to Bear Lake in RMNP.  We started out in dry and warm, summer-like, conditions, but found that Winter still has a firm hold on areas at elevation.  Bear Lake was covered in ice and snow, and there were many areas where the snow depth was still several feet deep.  On the way to the lake, we saw wild turkeys, which was a first for me in RMNP.

Gem Lake with views to the Continental Divide

On another day we hiked 4 miles roundtrip to Gem Lake.  This is a small, shallow body of water surrounded by rock cliffs that form a unique location that is picturesque, relaxing, and peaceful in spite of  its popularity and many visitors.  It makes a great hiking destination that is relatively easy to get to, although it has some (950') elevation gain.

More photos available here.

If you go:

Estes Park is located about 70 miles Northwest of Denver, CO.  It is a small tourist mountain town with a variety of restaurants, souvenir shops, and many family activities.  It is also the east entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park, making it a favorite summer destination.

Help - Get me out of here!

The Gem Lake Trail is a short hike that begins at the Lumpy Ridge Trailhead and offers panoramic views of the Continental Divide.  It is about a 4 mile roundtrip hike with 950' of elevation gain that passes many interesting rock formations.  It is rated as a moderately strenuous hike.

Spruce Lake RV Park is located adjacent to the Big Thompson River with full RV amenities including water, electric, cable, sewer hook ups, and a dump station.  The resort also includes a small fishing lake, putt-putt golf, pool and hot tub (not open during our early season visit) and easy walking access to shops and restaurants.  The campground has hot shower facilities and restrooms, which we found to always be very clean.  Check their website for reservations and the current fee schedule.  We recommend sites closest to the river for privacy and campsite viewing of the stream.

Trim Cracks

New trim with spacer piece

Hopefully other T@B owners out there have a little better luck than I did with a recent trim repair.   


Over the winter, several trim cracks developed on the upper rear pieces of my 2010 T@B camper.  Apparently this is a common problem, and , in fact, when I took my camper in for repair at a former T@B dealer, there was another new T@B in the shop with the exact same issue.   


The service staff suggested that the reason for the trim cracks is because the trim is fastened down by screwing directly through the trim piece. This can cause little fissures in the plastic that expand in hot/cold extremes and can result in cracking over time.

They said the solution is to drill small holes in the trim first and then screw it down.  

So, the shop affixed a couple new trim pieces, but when I called to check the status, they said that the new trim cracked overnight.    They didn't have a good explanation, so I am not sure what the cause was - I can only speculate that maybe it was damaged on installation or maybe it was just a defective piece to begin with and cracked when the temperatures got below freezing.  


They then reordered some new pieces, only to find out that the trim length wasn't long enough on one side, leaving a gap.  

Long story short, after a month in the shop, I got the camper back.  It is not quite good as new, but close - they had to add a small "spacer piece" at the top to make up for the gap.   The repair guy pointed out several times that this was a very difficult job, that it took 10 hours to finish, and he did the best he could.    To their credit, the shop didn't charge me anything for this repair, even though the trim was long past its 90-day warranty, and the job took several hours. So, overall, I feel fortunate with this outcome, and the repair looks much better than it did when I took it in.  My fingers are crossed that it will last.

I hope this is informative for anyone else seeking repairs and that the fix is a little more straight forward for you than it was for me. I'm just happy to have the camper back, and I'm looking forward to a long camping season. 

Ending the summer with a bang - a crash, a fire, and a lake cruise

This Labor Day weekend camping trip was peppered with several highs and lows, including crashing a bike, pontooning across a windy lake, swimming in a river stream, and returning home to a raging forest fire.

Six of us from a Colorado cycling club camped at the Arkansas Point Campground in an assortment of tents, motorhomes, and trailers at Lake Pueblo State Park, a 4600-acre reservoir just west of Pueblo, Colorado.  Turns out the T@B's A/C option was a worthwhile investment, especially this scorching weekend.

Afternoon highs pushed close to 100.  So, after biking and soaking our paws in a cool stream that flows out of the reservoir, it was a real treat to be able to escape to a cool spot in the T@B for an afternoon siesta during the hottest part of the day.   This high desert plain is a land of extremes though.  The evenings cool off very quickly, and it is not uncommon to run the A/C during the day and the furnace at night.

Minutes before the gymnastic flip

The weekend had a few challenges, including when a friend visiting from New York, somersaulted over the handle bars on a loose, rocky incline during a single track ride the first day.  He landed on his shoulder and suffered scrapes literally from head to toe.  Fortunately, New Yorkers are a tough lot, and he was no worse for the wear except for sporting a few new badges of honor (a.k.a. bruises and scrapes)  that are sure to make good conversation fodder when he returns home to his office.

I had my own cycling issues too, but they were more painful to my pocketbook than my body.  When we started out the first day, I didn't even make it to the trail before discovering a badly bent chain ring.  It was soon clear that there was no way I would be able to ride the trails without getting it repaired.  So I headed into town to a bike shop to get it fixed and ended up leaving the store with a whole new bike!  This turned out to be my most expensive camping trip to date.

Cliff jumping

On Sunday we were joined by a few extra members who hooked up with us for the day.  The group rode the trails in the morning, and then for something completely different, we rented a pontoon boat at the marina for an afternoon "cruise" on the reservoir.  It was a great way to beat the heat and cool off on the choppy lake waters.  I had fun playing "ship captain" for a few hours as we leisurely explored the many coves and cliff enclosed inlets.     We also enjoyed watching water skiers, tubers, jet skiers, and even some cliff jumpers making the most of this Labor Day weekend.

Pontooning on the Lake

It would have been an almost perfect holiday, except that when we returned home to Boulder, Colorado, the skies were darkened by what seemed to be storm clouds.  As we got closer though, we realized we were seeing dark smoke from a large forest fire that was raging in the mountains to the west.  That evening I could see flames on the mountainside and the skies glowing red from more than 20 miles away.   As of this writing, a day and a half after the fire started, it is still 0% contained, has doubled in size to over 7000 acres, and almost 100 structures and homes have been burned.  Fortunately, there have been no reports of injury or loss of life.

Large fire west of Boulder, CO

So, another Labor Day passes, and in spite of the bike crash and forest fire that bookended the holiday, we had a great time enjoying the Lake, friends, food, cycling, boating, and star gazing.  There is just something about getting out of your every day routine, exploring new territory and taking on new adventures, that is good for the spirit and the soul.  The T@B continues to be a great little camper that makes getting out and enjoying the outdoors a little easier and more comfortable.  I am already looking forward to the next trip!


If you go:

Lake Pueblo State Park is located 125 miles south of Denver. The park requires an $6/day vehicle pass + camping fee ($20/night). The Arkansas Point Campground has paved pads (many of them are pull throughs), electrical hookups, picnic shelters, and fire rings. There are flush toilets, laundry, and pay shower facilities ($.50 for 3 minutes) on site. There are fresh water spigots scattered throughout the campground, but no water/sewer hookups at individual sites.

Pontoon boats can be rented at the South Shore Marina, which is adjacent to the Arkansas Point Campground.   Cost was $165 for a half day, 20' rental that seated 8 people.  Other pricing information and details can be found on the marina's rental page.

South Park, Colorado

Lodgepole Campground

As summer begins to wind down in Colorado, I'm trying to make the most of the few remaining camping opportunities.   This past weekend I took a trip with a cycling club to the South Park Colorado Basin.   Although, these days, the area is probably best known for giving its name to the animated TV series South Park, it is also a great camping, fishing, hiking, and cycling destination.

Moose Sighting

This 1000 square mile grassland basin is located  60 miles SW of Denver at about 10,000 ft.   We camped near Jefferson, Colorado, at the Lodgepole Campground in the Pike National Forest.    This is a heavily forested area near streams and bogs, and on our first night, during a hike at dusk, we spotted a moose just a few hundred yards from our campsite.

The second day we were up early and rode the Gold Dust Trail that started at Boreas Pass.   This is my first year back on a mountain bike, and it is taking me a while to get the knack of riding the rocky trails and dodging the trees and bushes that seem to fly past even when I am white knuckling the brakes.  These downhill rides are a thrill, and the scenery is spectacular (when I'm not watching the rocks and stumps zip by).  The ride ended at Como, Colorado, where they were celebrating "Train Days".  So, we took in a tour of an old railroad round house and a slide show of the area's train history.  

Railroad Round House

The first day was all down hill, so the second day we stepped it up a notch and did an in/out ride from our campsite up to Georgia Pass and back.  This was a heart pounding, lung beating work out, especially as we approached the top of the pass and the Continental Divide nearing 12,000 oxygen deprived feet.    It was all worth it though - the views were incredible and diverse as we rode through tundra above treeline,  and then down through lodgepole forests, aspen groves, and shrub meadows.

View from near Georgia Pass

The weekend did not disappoint, and as we begin to see the first hints of the changing seasons, I'm already starting to sketch out tentative camping plans in the hopes of a long and warm Autumn.  With the many large stands of aspen groves in this area, South Park would also make a colorful Fall destination whether it be a day trip or an overnighter.

More photos are available here.

If you go:

The Lodgepole Campground is one of 3 primitive camping facilities located about a mile from Jefferson Lake.  There are 35 sites, a pump spigot for drinking water, and pit toilets.   There is no electricity nor showers at this campground.   Elevation is 9,900 feet, so expect chilly nights (it dropped to below 40 degrees during our stay), but it warms quickly once the sun comes out.  You can reserve a site through the recreation.gov website.  There is a one time $5 charge to enter the Jefferson Lake Recreation Area and daily camping rates are less than $15.  There is a small grocery at a convenience store in Jefferson where you can replenish camping supplies and purchase snacks.  Many more services are available in Fairplay, less than 20 miles from the campground.

Bike trip to Fraser, Colorado

We did a bit of mountain biking, hiking, and sightseeing this weekend in the Fraser Valley near Winter Park, Colorado, and on the way home we took the scenic route through Rocky Mountain National Park over Trail Ridge Road - the highest continuously paved highway in the U.S.

Counting on good weather is always a risky proposition in the mountains, and this trip we got a mixture of rain and sun, dramatic clouds rolling over the mountain peaks, a downpour on the drive home, and displays of some spectacular rainbows. We lucked out though and had beautiful weather while hiking/biking, albeit on somewhat muddy trails.

We camped at the St. Louis Creek Campground just outside of Fraser. Fraser is at 8500' and is known as the "Icebox of the Nation" with an annual mean temperature of only 32.5 degrees F, making it the coldest incorporated town in the Lower 48 states. Fortunately, the summer temperatures are well above that, but it can get pretty chilly at night. The T@B's heater was definitely put to good use, although we did have some issues keeping it running - a problem I am going to have to solve before the next outing.

If you go:

St. Louis Creek Campground is within the Arapaho National Forest and is popular with mountain bikers for its proximity to a web of trails. There are 15 first come first serve sites and cost is $14 per night. The campground has no electricity, but there are 2 well-cleaned vault toilets and 1 hand pump water spigot. This area was once beautifully forested with lots of privacy between sites. Unfortunately, the pine beetle infestation has hit this area in epidemic proportions over the past few years, and forest officials have had to chop down every pine tree in the campground. On the upside, on a clear night you will get a full view of the star-filled sky and unhindered views of Byers Peak during the day. There is no shade though, and the campground has a desolate feel to it in my opinion. Personally, I'll probably choose a different campground next time I stay in this area.

The campground is just 5 miles from Fraser where you will find a Safeway Supermarket and hot showers for only $3 at the Fraser Valley Recreation Center.

Trail Ridge Road through Rocky Mountain National Park is a beautiful detour with windy, hair pin turns and outstanding views in every direction. The park entrance fee in 2010 is $20 per automobile for seven consecutive days or $40 for an annual pass.

Highline Lake State Park - May 2010

I camped at Highline Lake State Park near Loma, CO, this past weekend. The campground is very near some excellent singletrack cycling trails and also just a few miles from the Colorado National Monument - a landscape filled with towering rock spires and vast red rock canyons.

The first day we tackled the single track trails on the Kokopelli Loops near Fruita, CO. These rides follow the Colorado River as it cuts through a canyon and offers fantastic views from the rim. I'm not an advanced singletrack rider, so negotiating the hairpin turns and rocks of every shape and size while at the same time trying to take in the scenery was pretty challenging for me. Some of the trails were pretty rough, and while descending one particularly bumpy trail, I lost my cell phone when it must have bounced out of my backpack. Fortunately it was found by another rider later. However, when I went to pick it up, I got the directions to their home mixed up and ended up on the wrong side of town. Later, at camp I spilled a container of antipasta for dinner, then I spilled my beer, etc. In retrospect, with the way my luck was going, I'm surprised I didn't pedal off a cliff during the ride!

We had quite a bit of rain overnight, so instead of cycling the second day I explored the Colorado National Monument, which I have passed so many times on the way to other places and never bothered to stop. I was glad I did this time. The Colorado National Monument is a little-known 20,000 acre area in Western Colorado filled with soaring cliffs and deep canyons. A 23-mile road wraps around the rim of the canyon offering spectacular and dramatic vistas at every turn. There are many opportunities to pull off and take pictures or have a picnic. The area also has many hiking trails which I hope to come back and explore some day soon.

More photos of the trip are available here.

If you go: The campground at Highline Lake is off the beaten path, but still easy to get to if you happen to be traveling in Western Colorado. It is just a few miles off Interstate 70 near the Utah border. The campground has water at most sites, but no electricity. There are pay showers, flush toilets, laundry, and a dump station. Cost in 2010 is $16 per night + a daily $6 park pass for your vehicle. The park also offers boating and a swimming beach. We saw lots of wildlife including a great horned owl, seagulls, cranes, and even beavers. There are many birds in the area, and the mourning doves are particularly prevalent - be prepared for their morning reveille at very early hours.

Lake Pueblo Mountain Biking Trip

We camped at Lake Pueblo, Colorado on this first trip of the season. I was anxious to discover if everything still worked on the camper after sitting unused in storage for 5 1/2 months. Fortunately, there were no issues, although it was still too cold at night to test the water pump. The heat and electrical systems all checked out okay though - hopefully a good omen for the rest of the season.

This was my first time camping in this area, and it turned into a real adventure as we explored miles of single track biking at this scenic Colorado state park. We camped at the Arkansas Point Campground, and joined several friends on this Easter weekend mountain biking trip.

The landscape is a rocky, dry, canyon area that has been dammed to create a reservoir that is enjoyed by boaters and fishermen. Cactus sentinels guard the limestone cliffs that rise dramatically out of the high desert, and Pikes Peak is ever present on the distant horizon.

Miles of mountain biking trails surround the area, crossing deep gorges, following the shore line, and rising over high cliffs. At times, it sounded like we were riding across broken glass as we biked through dry stream beds that are littered with sharp, broken shale. I was certain I was going to end up with a flat tire miles from camp, and so I was constantly checking to make sure my tire pressure was still good. Everything turned out okay, but carrying an extra tube and pump is advised. In many places the trails became rocky and steep, challenging even the most seasoned cyclists in our group. It is a fantastic landscape with views at every turn of the trail.

Saturday was very windy, so instead of grilling out over the camp fire for dinner, we opted for some local Mexican cuisine and margaritas in Pueblo. If you are in the area, I recommend Mi Ranchito just a short distance from the campground.

It was a wonderful trip, and everyone seemed to have a great time. Although the weather was comfortable during the day, I'm looking forward to returning later in the season when it is warmer and checking out the many options for swimming and boating.

Many more pictures of this trip can be found here.

If you go:

Lake Pueblo State Park is located 125 miles south of Denver. The park requires an $8/day vehicle pass + camping fee ($20/night). The Arkansas Point campground has paved pads (many of them are pull throughs), electrical hookups, picnic shelters, and fire rings. There are flush toilets, laundry, and pay shower facilities ($.50 for 3 minutes) on site. Although when we visited, there was no hot water - (exhilarating!). There are fresh water spigots scattered throughout the campground, but no water/sewer hookups at individual sites. Firewood can be purchased at the campground entrance.

Land of Enchantment - Taos, NM

It was a strange sight. Disembodied heads seemed to float silently at the surface of the hot pools. After a long soak, one-by-one they would emerge sluggishly from the water, reattached to wrinkled and pink, overcooked tourists' bodies. The relative coolness of the air, though, revived the guests, and they moved briskly to other pools, testing different mixes of mineral waters at the Ojo Caliente desert resort near Taos, New Mexico.

This was just one of the many sights and activities we took part in during our T@B camping trip in the Land of Enchantment last weekend. We spent one afternoon at Ojo Caliente where guests can partake in a wide variety of spa services including steam and dry saunas, mud baths, hot springs, and massages. We soaked in several of the 10 hot pools filled with different combinations of mineral waters including arsenic, lithium, iron, and soda. These open air pools varied in size, but most could accommodate at least 10 or more guests submerged up to their necks in the hot and healing waters. This was a perfect potion for our tired bodies after spending the two previous days hiking to a mountain lake and scaling a river gorge. We spent this relaxing afternoon soaking in hot pools, swinging on hammocks, and baking in a mud bath under a warm New Mexico sun.

The mud bath was a unique and fun experience that started by reaching into a communal pot of cool, soupy, liquid clay, which was then slathered liberally and literally from head to toe. The feeling is initially cool and clammy, but the clay quickly dries in the heat and arid desert atmosphere. Our bodies were soon covered in a thin gray crust that would crack with the slightest bend of the arm, turn of the head, or even change in expression, resulting in shattered clay fissures across our faces, chests, legs, and arms. After about a half hour of baking, we headed to an outdoor shower. The crusty clay quickly turned back into a gooey, muddy mixture that rinsed easily away. Although, the white stripes on my swimsuit now retain a slight muddy hue - a lasting and welcomed reminder of this Taos spa experience.

This trip began a few days earlier as we headed south from Boulder, CO. We traveled Interstate 25 and then cut across on Highway 64 through Eagle Nest and Angel Fire. This scenic highway is a must see if you happen to be traveling in the area. We passed wild, prong horned antelope and buffalo herds on the plains. The road then winds through Cimarron Canyon State Park and the Palisades Sill, a spectacular cliff cut by the Cimarron River. Further on along the highway and over a moderate pass, Eagle Nest Lake comes into view, and then the road passes through Carson National Forest before reaching Taos. It is such a pretty drive, especially with the afternoon sun dappling the road with dancing leaf shadows and Fall colors painting the hillsides and canyon walls with warm shades of yellow and red. Words and photos can only just begin to describe the diverse beauty in this area.

The drive, however, wasn't all smooth sailing. I learned a valuable lesson on this trip about carefully checking the trailer connections before heading out. About 30 minutes into the trip, a concerned motorist flagged us down, and at 60 mph yelled out from her car window that we had a hose dragging from the trailer. We pulled over immediately. It turned out that the 7-way plug had come disconnected and was dragging on the ground. It was badly damaged, but luckily, it still worked with the help of a bungee cord to secure it in place. I'll have to replace the plug before the next trip, but it was a good lesson and reminder to double and triple check that your cable connections are firmly secured.

We arrived at our campground (Rio Bravo) outside of Taos late in the afternoon. The campground host escorted us to the campsite, described the local amenities, and then pointed out a dead tarantula (Yes, a tarantula!) right outside our trailer door. The rest of the stay I was doubly careful to check my shoes before sticking my toes in, and to closely examine the fire wood before picking a log up to throw on the campfire. Next time maybe we will see a live one!

This was a BLM campground in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area that didn't take reservations. So, we were lucky to get the last electric site (there were only 4), and we put it to good use, plugging in a small electric heater that kept the T@B toasty all night long when the desert temperatures plummeted to close to 40 degrees. When we awoke the next day, I was surprised to see that our camping neighbors had run an orange extension cord across the road during the night and plugged into a spare outlet on *our* electric post. The nerve! They didn't bother to ask, let alone offer to share the cost. I don't know - it just seemed kind of rude.

I was feeling a little annoyed with them about that. Later that day, we wanted to check our email. So we trekked into Taos, and I brought my laptop along with the idea that we would pull into a motel parking lot or business and just "borrow" access from their wireless internet connection if there was an available and unsecured signal. Then it suddenly struck me that I was being a complete hypocrite. Here I am complaining about our rude camping neighbors stealing electricity (which, by the way, cost us nothing extra), and then I am about to try to do the same thing by stealing internet access from a business.

It was a small but humbling realization. So instead, we went on to find a very nice internet cafe in town called Mondo Kultur, bought a couple drinks and snacks, and enjoyed using their internet access with a clear conscience. I am still living and learning even at the age of 45.

Besides nice coffee shops and cafes, Taos has scores of art galleries, interesting curio shops, and many dining alternatives - although if dining out, I can think of no good reason to eat anything but their delicious Southwestern style food. When in Rome....

Taos also offers many outdoor adventure opportunities like rafting, horseback riding, skiing, mountain biking, and hiking. We hiked 2 scenic, but very different, trails during our short stay. The terrain in this region varies widely in a relatively small area, transforming from a deep, desert, river gorge to high, snow-capped, mountain peaks over 13,000' in elevation in the span of less than 40 miles.

Our first hike was an exhilarating, 4-mile round-trip that started at Taos Ski Valley and rose to 11,000' at Williams Lake. It was a relatively steep climb, through patches of early season snow and ice that made the trip a little slippery in places, but we were rewarded by stunning views when the trail opened into a wide, lake-filled bowl surrounded by the snow-capped, Sangre de Cristo peaks.

A second hike the next day began at a much lower (and warmer!) elevation at the bottom of a steep river gorge near the confluence of the Rio Grande and the Rio Pueblo. This was a shorter hike very near our campsite along an abandoned road that had closed years ago when part of the canyon wall collapsed in a landslide. Consequently, one short portion of the trail requires cutting across the rocky, but easy to navigate, outcrop that was left behind. This hike provides unobstructed views of the river gorge from the bottom of the canyon all the way to its rim. Trees cluster along the Pueblo River that cuts through the gorge, and with the Fall leaves at their peak, we were greeted with colorful views at every step of the trail.

We enjoyed this trip so much that after 3 days we were waffling on whether or not to extend our stay. Nevertheless, we packed everything up early and started down the road, only to decide 20 minutes later to turn around, head back to the campground, and stay an additional day. We were so glad we did. That night we roasted hot dogs over the campfire while gazing at the stars bursting from the inky, black, New Mexico night sky. Later that evening, a stormed rolled in, and we were awoken by a driving, soaking rain and lightning crashing down around us. We remained dry and cozy though inside our T@B trailer as we enjoyed the unexpected "fireworks" outside.

New Mexico lives up to its nickname, Land of Enchantment. We were certainly under its spell of scenic beauty during our brief stay. I still find myself frequently daydreaming about the expansive vistas and night skies cluttered with stars. I fantasize about soaking in hot pools, mud baths, and stretching out on poolside hammocks that swing peacefully in a gentle afternoon breeze under an incredibly brilliant, blue, New Mexico sky. Cares and worries drift away. If it wasn't for needing to earn a wage, pay bills, and live responsibly (something I don't necessarily advocate), I would still be there. Next camping season can't arrive soon enough!

If you go:

Taos offers many RV camping options in town, but I recommend first checking out the 5 small BLM campgrounds in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area along the Rio Grande on highway 570 north of Pilar (about 17 miles south of Taos). These campgrounds are off the beaten path, spacious, and very scenic. The first 2 campgrounds offer some electric sites, and the second (Rio Bravo) where we stayed also has pay showers (be sure to bring your quarters). This campground has several pull-throughs for easy RV parking, flush toilets, picnic shelters at most sites, firewood for sale, and a shared sink area for kitchen clean up. All sites are first come first served; they don't take reservations, and 2009 rates were $15/night. There is no extra charge for the brilliant night skies packed with more stars than you could ever imagine.

Ojo Caliente is a luxury resort located an hour west of Taos. It is open year round from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day. Rates for use of the mineral pools, mud bath, steam saunas and showers vary from $16-$24 depending on the day of the week. Other spa amenities such as private tubs, massages, robe and locker rentals are extra. The resort also has a restaurant and offers a variety of lodging options including cottages, hotel rooms, suites, and RV/campground facilities ($30 per site including spa discounts).