Camping on Lake Granby, Colorado

Stillwater Campground on Lake Granby, Colorado

Deep in the heart of the Colorado Rockies, Stillwater Campground sits on the shores of picturesque Lake Granby and is surrounded in all directions with snowcapped peaks, pristine lakes, and abundant wildlife.  Although the pine trees at this campground have been removed because of the pine beetle infestation, this is still a favorite camping destination of mine. I  stayed 2 nights here in my T@B, watching sailboats drift across the lake during the day and stars crowd the skies at night.  

Grand Lake village and Rocky Mountain National Park are just 7 miles away and make great day trips.   Grand Lake is a popular summer destination and offers many activities including boating, fishing, hiking, swimming (brrrr), and horseback riding, to name a few.  If you are inclined to a more relaxing pace, the main street through town has many interesting tourist shops, restaurants, bars, and an old fashion ice cream parlor on just about every block.

Kauffman House Museum/Hotel

One unassuming treasure that is easy to overlook when visiting Grand Lake is the Kauffman House Museum.  For a $5 admission visitors are transported back to the early 1900s to a 5-room, 2-story log hotel filled with colorful artifacts and period pieces that offer an intriguing glimpse of the people and places in early Grand Lake.   I'm generally not a huge fan of museums, especially when on a camping trip (I'd rather be hiking or biking), but this was an exception for me with a very friendly and knowledgable staff that gave an enriching tour of the hotel.  If you are looking for something at a more relaxed pace - this will fit the bill.  I give it two thumbs up.

Second only to my love for old camping trailers is my fascination with antique boats.  As luck would have it, there was a small antique boat show on Grand Lake this weekend.  Some of these gleaming wood beauties were over 100 years old, and one even had a small steam engine.  One owner, in particular, was very proud (and rightly so) of his Chris-Craft runabout named CC Rider.  As I walked by, he began to regale me with all the details about his boat and boasted that the engine had a triple intake.  I had no idea what the significance of that was, but I nodded as though I did.  He was like a proud parent showing off his new baby and didn't seem to mind or notice my mechanical ignorance.  He introduced me to some of the other boat owners with the same exuberance and enthusiasm about their projects as his own.   I envy people like him who are so passionate about their work.

Elk off Trail Ridge Road

Trail Ridge Road is also close, and it runs through Rocky Mountain National Park.  It is a perennial favorite drive of mine between Grand Lake and Estes Park, and so I took this route home over the "highest continuous highway in the U.S." reaching a chilly and snow-covered elevation of 12,183'.  I towed the T@B with a Nissan Xterra and had no difficulties pulling the camper at this altitude and steep grade,  taking extra caution, of course, on curvy and narrow sections and near the sometimes stomach-wrenching drop-offs.

Hello Marmot

The drive not only offers top-of-the-world views, but also frequent glimpses of wildlife near the road, making this a perfect opportunity for a photo safari.  I saw many diverse wildlife including herds of elk, a moose, and even a typically shy marmot greeting passers-by.

I continue to enjoy the T@B camper and the adventures it offers on these short get-aways.    Sadly though, another weekend flew by too quickly.   

More photos here.

If You Go:

Lake Granby

Stillwater campground is located 6 miles south of Grand Lake, CO, and sites can be reserved on recreation.gov.  I stayed in site #94, which was smaller than most, but it was a perfect size for a T@B camper and tow vehicle.   The campground is built on a hill, so some sites are terraced with separate levels for tent pad, picnic table, and parking.   The main drawback about Stillwater campground is that, like many in the area, the pine trees have been cut down because of the pine beetle infestation.  So, shade is hard to come by, but it also means that most sites have unobstructed, spectacular views of the Lake.    The campground has showers (sometimes the water is even hot) and flush toilets.  Some sites have electricity and water, and there is a dump station at the entrance.  In addition to the $20/day camping fee there is a daily use fee (~$5) for entrance into the Arapahoe Recreation Area where the campground is located.  A multi-day pass can be purchased with a credit card at the entrance to the campground.

Moraine Park - Rocky Mountain National Park

Loch Vale

This was a banner year for snow pack in the Colorado Rockies, which was evidenced by high drifts of snow and streams and falls running fuller and faster than I have seen in my 20+ years of living and hiking in the area.  Water falls were particularly spectacular especially at Alberta Falls and also at the Alluvial Fan region near Horseshoe Park.

Alberta Falls

The highlight of the trip was a hike to Loch Vale, a crystal clear lake nestled at the base of a rugged mountain peak and set against the baby blue Colorado sky.  In a word, "spectacular", but that doesn't even come close to doing it justice.   It is about a 3-mile (one way) hike from the Bear Lake parking lot, and it has close to 1000' of elevation gain.  The trail also passes the stunning Alberta Falls, which this year was roaring full of water due to the heavy snow melt. It is rated as a moderately difficult trail, and it sees very heavy use.  I recommend getting there very early to avoid the crowds.

We were lucky to see a wide variety of wildlife in and around Moraine Park including a red-tailed hawk soaring above the meadow, elk herds roaming across overflowing streams, a fox slyly searching for its next meal, and a speckled fawn with its mother climbing to safety up a slope of fresh green summer growth. 

Moraine Park Campground

We stayed at the Moraine Park Campground, which is one of RMNP's biggest with 245 sites.   Although it is often full on the weekends, it didn't feel crowded since the sites were well-spaced over a large area, and many of them, especially on the campground's perimeter, had exceptional views of Rocky Mountain scenery.  Cost for an RV site was $20/night plus a separate park entrance fee.   There is no electricity nor water hook ups, but some of the restrooms have flush toilets and there are water spigots located throughout the campground.   Hot showers, groceries, and restaurants can be found just minutes away in Estes Park.  Check the visitor's center in Estes Park for more information.

Estes Park, CO - Our First Trip of 2011

T@B camper in Estes Park

We rolled the T@B out of moth balls and headed for Estes Park, Colorado, this past weekend for the first trip of the season.  We couldn't have asked for better weather, which lent itself well to exploring Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) and enjoying nearby hiking trails.

Deep snow in May at Bear Lake

Wild Turkeys in RMNP

We stayed at Spruce Lake RV Park on the edge of town, just a short 10 minute drive to the entrance of RMNP.   The national park is abundant with wildlife, but we only had to travel a few yards from the campground to see a herd of elk.  In fact, there was fresh evidence of elk activity right at our campsite when we arrived, which made after-dark trips to the restrooms a little bit like running blindly through a mine field.

One day after breakfast we drove up to Bear Lake in RMNP.  We started out in dry and warm, summer-like, conditions, but found that Winter still has a firm hold on areas at elevation.  Bear Lake was covered in ice and snow, and there were many areas where the snow depth was still several feet deep.  On the way to the lake, we saw wild turkeys, which was a first for me in RMNP.

Gem Lake with views to the Continental Divide

On another day we hiked 4 miles roundtrip to Gem Lake.  This is a small, shallow body of water surrounded by rock cliffs that form a unique location that is picturesque, relaxing, and peaceful in spite of  its popularity and many visitors.  It makes a great hiking destination that is relatively easy to get to, although it has some (950') elevation gain.

More photos available here.

If you go:

Estes Park is located about 70 miles Northwest of Denver, CO.  It is a small tourist mountain town with a variety of restaurants, souvenir shops, and many family activities.  It is also the east entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park, making it a favorite summer destination.

Help - Get me out of here!

The Gem Lake Trail is a short hike that begins at the Lumpy Ridge Trailhead and offers panoramic views of the Continental Divide.  It is about a 4 mile roundtrip hike with 950' of elevation gain that passes many interesting rock formations.  It is rated as a moderately strenuous hike.

Spruce Lake RV Park is located adjacent to the Big Thompson River with full RV amenities including water, electric, cable, sewer hook ups, and a dump station.  The resort also includes a small fishing lake, putt-putt golf, pool and hot tub (not open during our early season visit) and easy walking access to shops and restaurants.  The campground has hot shower facilities and restrooms, which we found to always be very clean.  Check their website for reservations and the current fee schedule.  We recommend sites closest to the river for privacy and campsite viewing of the stream.

Bike trip to Fraser, Colorado

We did a bit of mountain biking, hiking, and sightseeing this weekend in the Fraser Valley near Winter Park, Colorado, and on the way home we took the scenic route through Rocky Mountain National Park over Trail Ridge Road - the highest continuously paved highway in the U.S.

Counting on good weather is always a risky proposition in the mountains, and this trip we got a mixture of rain and sun, dramatic clouds rolling over the mountain peaks, a downpour on the drive home, and displays of some spectacular rainbows. We lucked out though and had beautiful weather while hiking/biking, albeit on somewhat muddy trails.

We camped at the St. Louis Creek Campground just outside of Fraser. Fraser is at 8500' and is known as the "Icebox of the Nation" with an annual mean temperature of only 32.5 degrees F, making it the coldest incorporated town in the Lower 48 states. Fortunately, the summer temperatures are well above that, but it can get pretty chilly at night. The T@B's heater was definitely put to good use, although we did have some issues keeping it running - a problem I am going to have to solve before the next outing.

If you go:

St. Louis Creek Campground is within the Arapaho National Forest and is popular with mountain bikers for its proximity to a web of trails. There are 15 first come first serve sites and cost is $14 per night. The campground has no electricity, but there are 2 well-cleaned vault toilets and 1 hand pump water spigot. This area was once beautifully forested with lots of privacy between sites. Unfortunately, the pine beetle infestation has hit this area in epidemic proportions over the past few years, and forest officials have had to chop down every pine tree in the campground. On the upside, on a clear night you will get a full view of the star-filled sky and unhindered views of Byers Peak during the day. There is no shade though, and the campground has a desolate feel to it in my opinion. Personally, I'll probably choose a different campground next time I stay in this area.

The campground is just 5 miles from Fraser where you will find a Safeway Supermarket and hot showers for only $3 at the Fraser Valley Recreation Center.

Trail Ridge Road through Rocky Mountain National Park is a beautiful detour with windy, hair pin turns and outstanding views in every direction. The park entrance fee in 2010 is $20 per automobile for seven consecutive days or $40 for an annual pass.