Land of Enchantment - Taos, NM

It was a strange sight. Disembodied heads seemed to float silently at the surface of the hot pools. After a long soak, one-by-one they would emerge sluggishly from the water, reattached to wrinkled and pink, overcooked tourists' bodies. The relative coolness of the air, though, revived the guests, and they moved briskly to other pools, testing different mixes of mineral waters at the Ojo Caliente desert resort near Taos, New Mexico.

This was just one of the many sights and activities we took part in during our T@B camping trip in the Land of Enchantment last weekend. We spent one afternoon at Ojo Caliente where guests can partake in a wide variety of spa services including steam and dry saunas, mud baths, hot springs, and massages. We soaked in several of the 10 hot pools filled with different combinations of mineral waters including arsenic, lithium, iron, and soda. These open air pools varied in size, but most could accommodate at least 10 or more guests submerged up to their necks in the hot and healing waters. This was a perfect potion for our tired bodies after spending the two previous days hiking to a mountain lake and scaling a river gorge. We spent this relaxing afternoon soaking in hot pools, swinging on hammocks, and baking in a mud bath under a warm New Mexico sun.

The mud bath was a unique and fun experience that started by reaching into a communal pot of cool, soupy, liquid clay, which was then slathered liberally and literally from head to toe. The feeling is initially cool and clammy, but the clay quickly dries in the heat and arid desert atmosphere. Our bodies were soon covered in a thin gray crust that would crack with the slightest bend of the arm, turn of the head, or even change in expression, resulting in shattered clay fissures across our faces, chests, legs, and arms. After about a half hour of baking, we headed to an outdoor shower. The crusty clay quickly turned back into a gooey, muddy mixture that rinsed easily away. Although, the white stripes on my swimsuit now retain a slight muddy hue - a lasting and welcomed reminder of this Taos spa experience.

This trip began a few days earlier as we headed south from Boulder, CO. We traveled Interstate 25 and then cut across on Highway 64 through Eagle Nest and Angel Fire. This scenic highway is a must see if you happen to be traveling in the area. We passed wild, prong horned antelope and buffalo herds on the plains. The road then winds through Cimarron Canyon State Park and the Palisades Sill, a spectacular cliff cut by the Cimarron River. Further on along the highway and over a moderate pass, Eagle Nest Lake comes into view, and then the road passes through Carson National Forest before reaching Taos. It is such a pretty drive, especially with the afternoon sun dappling the road with dancing leaf shadows and Fall colors painting the hillsides and canyon walls with warm shades of yellow and red. Words and photos can only just begin to describe the diverse beauty in this area.

The drive, however, wasn't all smooth sailing. I learned a valuable lesson on this trip about carefully checking the trailer connections before heading out. About 30 minutes into the trip, a concerned motorist flagged us down, and at 60 mph yelled out from her car window that we had a hose dragging from the trailer. We pulled over immediately. It turned out that the 7-way plug had come disconnected and was dragging on the ground. It was badly damaged, but luckily, it still worked with the help of a bungee cord to secure it in place. I'll have to replace the plug before the next trip, but it was a good lesson and reminder to double and triple check that your cable connections are firmly secured.

We arrived at our campground (Rio Bravo) outside of Taos late in the afternoon. The campground host escorted us to the campsite, described the local amenities, and then pointed out a dead tarantula (Yes, a tarantula!) right outside our trailer door. The rest of the stay I was doubly careful to check my shoes before sticking my toes in, and to closely examine the fire wood before picking a log up to throw on the campfire. Next time maybe we will see a live one!

This was a BLM campground in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area that didn't take reservations. So, we were lucky to get the last electric site (there were only 4), and we put it to good use, plugging in a small electric heater that kept the T@B toasty all night long when the desert temperatures plummeted to close to 40 degrees. When we awoke the next day, I was surprised to see that our camping neighbors had run an orange extension cord across the road during the night and plugged into a spare outlet on *our* electric post. The nerve! They didn't bother to ask, let alone offer to share the cost. I don't know - it just seemed kind of rude.

I was feeling a little annoyed with them about that. Later that day, we wanted to check our email. So we trekked into Taos, and I brought my laptop along with the idea that we would pull into a motel parking lot or business and just "borrow" access from their wireless internet connection if there was an available and unsecured signal. Then it suddenly struck me that I was being a complete hypocrite. Here I am complaining about our rude camping neighbors stealing electricity (which, by the way, cost us nothing extra), and then I am about to try to do the same thing by stealing internet access from a business.

It was a small but humbling realization. So instead, we went on to find a very nice internet cafe in town called Mondo Kultur, bought a couple drinks and snacks, and enjoyed using their internet access with a clear conscience. I am still living and learning even at the age of 45.

Besides nice coffee shops and cafes, Taos has scores of art galleries, interesting curio shops, and many dining alternatives - although if dining out, I can think of no good reason to eat anything but their delicious Southwestern style food. When in Rome....

Taos also offers many outdoor adventure opportunities like rafting, horseback riding, skiing, mountain biking, and hiking. We hiked 2 scenic, but very different, trails during our short stay. The terrain in this region varies widely in a relatively small area, transforming from a deep, desert, river gorge to high, snow-capped, mountain peaks over 13,000' in elevation in the span of less than 40 miles.

Our first hike was an exhilarating, 4-mile round-trip that started at Taos Ski Valley and rose to 11,000' at Williams Lake. It was a relatively steep climb, through patches of early season snow and ice that made the trip a little slippery in places, but we were rewarded by stunning views when the trail opened into a wide, lake-filled bowl surrounded by the snow-capped, Sangre de Cristo peaks.

A second hike the next day began at a much lower (and warmer!) elevation at the bottom of a steep river gorge near the confluence of the Rio Grande and the Rio Pueblo. This was a shorter hike very near our campsite along an abandoned road that had closed years ago when part of the canyon wall collapsed in a landslide. Consequently, one short portion of the trail requires cutting across the rocky, but easy to navigate, outcrop that was left behind. This hike provides unobstructed views of the river gorge from the bottom of the canyon all the way to its rim. Trees cluster along the Pueblo River that cuts through the gorge, and with the Fall leaves at their peak, we were greeted with colorful views at every step of the trail.

We enjoyed this trip so much that after 3 days we were waffling on whether or not to extend our stay. Nevertheless, we packed everything up early and started down the road, only to decide 20 minutes later to turn around, head back to the campground, and stay an additional day. We were so glad we did. That night we roasted hot dogs over the campfire while gazing at the stars bursting from the inky, black, New Mexico night sky. Later that evening, a stormed rolled in, and we were awoken by a driving, soaking rain and lightning crashing down around us. We remained dry and cozy though inside our T@B trailer as we enjoyed the unexpected "fireworks" outside.

New Mexico lives up to its nickname, Land of Enchantment. We were certainly under its spell of scenic beauty during our brief stay. I still find myself frequently daydreaming about the expansive vistas and night skies cluttered with stars. I fantasize about soaking in hot pools, mud baths, and stretching out on poolside hammocks that swing peacefully in a gentle afternoon breeze under an incredibly brilliant, blue, New Mexico sky. Cares and worries drift away. If it wasn't for needing to earn a wage, pay bills, and live responsibly (something I don't necessarily advocate), I would still be there. Next camping season can't arrive soon enough!

If you go:

Taos offers many RV camping options in town, but I recommend first checking out the 5 small BLM campgrounds in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area along the Rio Grande on highway 570 north of Pilar (about 17 miles south of Taos). These campgrounds are off the beaten path, spacious, and very scenic. The first 2 campgrounds offer some electric sites, and the second (Rio Bravo) where we stayed also has pay showers (be sure to bring your quarters). This campground has several pull-throughs for easy RV parking, flush toilets, picnic shelters at most sites, firewood for sale, and a shared sink area for kitchen clean up. All sites are first come first served; they don't take reservations, and 2009 rates were $15/night. There is no extra charge for the brilliant night skies packed with more stars than you could ever imagine.

Ojo Caliente is a luxury resort located an hour west of Taos. It is open year round from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day. Rates for use of the mineral pools, mud bath, steam saunas and showers vary from $16-$24 depending on the day of the week. Other spa amenities such as private tubs, massages, robe and locker rentals are extra. The resort also has a restaurant and offers a variety of lodging options including cottages, hotel rooms, suites, and RV/campground facilities ($30 per site including spa discounts).